Autumn is probably the best season to visit Umbria. Not just because the temperature is the best for moving about at all times of the day, but the light is particularly pretty, the colours of nature are enchanting, sunsets are romantic and lingering and all of this allows us to take particularly gorgeous pictures. Autumn is also the showcase season for two of the region’s most famous and popular products: wine and oil. In autumn, especially in the countryside, people start lighting their fireplaces and preparing torta al testo on the embers and this is also the period for preparing canned food, especially tomato sauce, the preparation of which is an actual ritual, a bit like grape and olive picking. To explore Umbria in the autumn, here is a tour through flavour, tradition and spirituality.
Trevi
A delightful hamlet perched on a hill at more than 400 metres above sea level, overlooking the valley and surrounded by olive groves. This town is particularly famous for its oil and its sites include, by no coincidence, the Complesso Museale di San Francesco with the Museo della Civiltà dell’Ulivo (the Saint Francis Museum Circuit with the Olive tree Civilisation Museum). Montefalco is home of Sant’Emiliano, the ancient 1,700-year-old olive tree, the oldest in Umbria standing more than 9 metres tall. In autumn one can also explore the olive mills, on in addition to the olive groves, as these facilities are precious containers of history, craftsmanship and farming tradition.
Montefalco and Torgiano
From oil we move on to wine, namely the fine and highly appreciated wines of Montefalco and Torgiano. These two towns are worth a visit to explore their vineyards and cellars, which offer a unique and enchanting space that conveys an authentic and fascinating account of the region’s past and present. In Torgiano it is also possible to visit the Musei del Vino e dell’Olio (Wine and Oil Museums) and both towns are gems of art, history, architecture and scenery.
Le Carceri and Lo Speco
Autumn is also perfect for learning more about the more spiritual and mystical side of Umbria. In particular we recommend visiting two Franciscan sites, one being very famous and popular with visitors, the Eremo delle Carceri hermitage in Assisi, while the other is lesser known but none the less powerful and enchanting, the Santuario del Sacro Speco shrine in Narni. The former is an ancient hermitage located at 800 metres above sea level and immersed in the woods on the slopes of Mount Subasio. Here Saint Francis would retreat in contemplation and prayer, along with some of his companions, living in solitude and austerity in small and tight cells, one would say prison-like chambers (as the word ‘Carceri’ in Italian suggests). At the shrine in Narni, in addition to the small church and well of miracles, there is the Sacro Speco, a rift in the rock that extends for several metres and became one of Saint Francis’ favourite places of prayer. Two extraordinary sites to explore regardless of one’s own religious views.
Forests and chestnuts
Autumn is also the season of chestnuts and Umbria is an excellent place for that. In fact one of the most recommended things to do during this season is go for walks in the region’s forests, as they are beautiful and very interesting in terms of scenery, flora and fauna. There are several famous chestnut forests: in the municipalities of Avigliano Umbro, Todi, Montecchio and Baschi, in particular there is a high concentration of these trees in the areas of Morre and Morruzze, Melezzole, Toscolano and Santa Restituta, small villages which are also delightful and characteristic and certainly worth a visit.
To explore Umbria, our Hotel Fonte Cesia, in the historical centre of Todi, the heart of the region, is the perfect base for visiting every corner of the area in a short amount of time.
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